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Beekeeping Guide

Is Your Land Ready for Bees?

Analyse your local habitat, learn what your first season needs, and explore tools built for modern beekeepers.

Habitat Checker

Click anywhere on the map — or use your location — to score the land within 3 km for bee-friendly habitat. Forests, meadows, and orchards are ideal. Urban areas and monoculture crops reduce the score.

Or click anywhere on the map to place your hive.

What Every New Beekeeper Needs

Start with two hives. It lets you compare colonies, diagnose problems by contrast, and share resources between them when one needs help.

01
A Hive
Langstroth is the global standard. Buy assembled boxes — flat-pack is a frustrating first project when bees are waiting.
02
A Colony
A nucleus colony from a local breeder in spring. Local bees are adapted to your climate and the disease pressure in your region.
03
Protective Gear
Full suit, ventilated gloves, and a veil. Confidence comes before going gloveless — there is no shame in full protection.
04
A Smoker
Smoke triggers a feeding reflex that calms bees before inspections. Natural fuel only — burlap, pine needles, or dried herbs.
05
Hive Tool
Bees seal everything with propolis. A J-hook or straight hive tool is essential for separating frames and scraping wax.
06
Water Source
Bees need water within 500 m. Without a dedicated source they will colonise your neighbour's pool — and return every day.
07
Inspection Log
Record queen status, brood pattern, stores, and concerns after every visit. Memory alone is not a reliable system.
08
A Monitor
A sensor tracks temperature, humidity, CO₂, and sound between inspections — catching swarm signals and disease early.
EvoCultiva Sensor

3D Printed Beekeeping Tools

Printable designs for tools that every beekeeper needs. Use PETG for anything outdoors — it handles UV, heat, and moisture far better than PLA.

Watering Station
Bee Watering Station
A shallow tray with a raised landing grid so bees can drink without drowning. Fill with pebbles for extra perches. Place within 200 m of the hive during summer.
~4 h print PETG No supports
Coming soon
Entrance Reducer
Entrance Reducer
A slide-in reducer that narrows the hive entrance so a new colony can defend against robbing and wasps. Adjustable from 10 cm down to 2 cm.
~1 h print PETG No supports
Coming soon
Frame Rest
Frame Rest
Clips onto the outside of a hive box to hold frames during inspection — keeping them clean, off the ground, and out of your hands while you work.
~2 h print PETG or ASA No supports
Coming soon

Learn the Basics

Understanding what is happening inside your hive — and what to do about it — is the difference between a thriving colony and a failing one. Start here.

Inside the Colony

The Queen
One queen. Everything depends on her.

A healthy queen can lay up to 2,000 eggs per day at peak season. She is the only sexually reproductive female in the colony and the source of its genetic character.

Look for a steady, compact brood pattern — no gaps. A patchy or scattered pattern is usually the first sign of a failing or failing-to-mate queen. You may never see the queen herself; the brood tells you enough.

Worker Bees
Up to 50,000 at summer peak.

Workers are infertile females. They spend the first three weeks of their life on hive duties — nursing brood, building comb, curing honey, guarding — before transitioning to foraging for the final two to three weeks.

In winter the colony drops to 10,000–15,000 bees. They form a tight cluster to generate heat and survive on stored honey.

Drones
Males. Their only role is mating.

Drones are produced in spring and summer. They do not forage, produce wax, or sting. Their purpose is to fly to drone congregation areas and mate with virgin queens from other colonies.

In autumn the workers evict surviving drones to conserve winter stores. If you see drones being expelled, winter preparations are underway.

The Brood Nest
Eggs, larvae, and capped cells.

Worker eggs hatch after 3 days, are fed as larvae for 6 days, then capped for 12 days before emerging as adults — 21 days total. Queen cells take 16 days; drones 24.

Capped brood should be smooth, slightly domed, and uniform in colour. Sunken, perforated, or discoloured cappings are warning signs worth investigating immediately.

The Beekeeping Year

Spring
Build-up
The colony expands rapidly. Add supers early. Watch for swarm cells from mid-April onward. Treat for Varroa if mite counts are high.
Summer
Honey Flow
Peak foraging. Keep supers on. Inspect every 7–10 days. Ensure adequate water nearby. Harvest honey when frames are at least 80% capped.
Autumn
Winter Prep
Treat for Varroa after harvest — this is critical. Ensure at least 15 kg of stores. Fit the mouse guard. Reduce the entrance.
Winter
Minimal Disturbance
Let the cluster be. Check stores by hefting the hive. Feed fondant if light. Order new equipment and plan for spring splits.

What to Check at Every Inspection

Eggs present — tiny white grains standing upright in cells confirm the queen was laying within the last 3 days
Solid brood pattern — compact, consistent, with minimal empty cells between capped brood
Adequate stores — honey and pollen frames surrounding the brood nest
No queen cells (unless you intend to let the colony swarm or you are making a split)
Calm temperament — a sudden increase in defensive behaviour can signal queenlessness or disease
Sacbrood or chalk brood — dead larvae that look like grey/white pellets in the cells
American Foulbrood — ropy, brown, foul-smelling capped brood (notifiable disease in most countries)
Varroa on bees — small reddish-brown mites visible on adult bees, especially drones

Common Threats

Varroa
High risk
A parasitic mite that feeds on developing brood and transmits viruses. Untreated colonies typically collapse within 2–3 years. Monitor mite counts monthly with an alcohol wash or sticky board. Treat with oxalic acid in winter when brood is absent, and with approved miticides after harvest in late summer.
American Foulbrood
Notifiable
A bacterial disease (Paenibacillus larvae) that destroys the brood. Infected larvae turn ropy and brown with a distinctive sour smell. There is no treatment — affected hives must be destroyed and the equipment burned. Always report it to your national bee inspector. It is spread mainly by beekeepers sharing equipment.
Swarming
Manageable
The colony's natural method of reproduction. The old queen leaves with half the bees. It is not a disaster — but you lose production and population. Prevent it by regular inspections, removing queen cells, and giving the colony space with additional supers. A second hive makes artificial swarms far easier to manage.
Nosema
Moderate
A gut microsporidian that causes dysentery and weakens foragers. Most dangerous in late winter when bees cannot fly to defecate. Ensure good ventilation, avoid prolonged confinement, and replace old comb regularly. Fumagillin is not available in the EU; management is largely husbandry-based.
Starvation
Preventable
The second most common cause of colony loss, especially late winter to early spring before forage is available. Heft the hive regularly through winter — it should feel heavy. Feed with fondant if stores are low; never liquid feed below 10°C as it causes dysentery.

Ideal Hive Placement

Within 3 km of forests, meadows, orchards, or heathland
South or east-facing entrance — morning sun helps bees start foraging earlier
Sheltered from prevailing wind on at least two sides
Clean water source within 500 m
Dappled afternoon shade in summer, full sun in winter
At least 3 m from footpaths and property boundaries
Downwind of pesticide-intensive monocultures
Low-lying frost pockets or areas with standing water

Mite Load Calculator

Enter your alcohol wash or sugar roll results to find your infestation rate and see whether treatment is needed.

When to test

Spring
Baseline check
Test once at first inspection after winter to catch any surge from winter mite reproduction.
Summer
Every 4–6 weeks
Populations double quickly during peak colony growth. Treat before adding honey supers if above threshold.
Late Summer
Critical window
Aug–Sep is the most important test of the year. Winter bees are reared now — high mite loads at this stage mean colony collapse by spring.
Autumn
Final check
One last test before the colony clusters. If above threshold, oxalic acid vaporisation can be applied into a broodless colony.

Calculate your mite load

Spring
Baseline check
Test once at first inspection after winter to catch any surge from winter mite reproduction.
Summer
Every 4–6 weeks
Populations double quickly during peak colony growth. Treat before adding honey supers if above threshold.
Late Summer
Critical window
Aug–Sep is the most important test of the year. Winter bees are reared now — high mite loads at this stage mean colony collapse by spring.
Autumn
Final check
One last test before the colony clusters. If above threshold, oxalic acid vaporisation can be applied into a broodless colony.
Sample method
Alcohol wash
Sugar roll
Standard: 300 bees ≈ ½ cup / 100 mL
Season
Spring / Summer
Late Summer / Fall
Monitoring Between Inspections

Most colony losses happen between visits. A continuous sensor catches the signals that a fortnightly inspection cannot — temperature drops, CO₂ spikes before swarming, abnormal sound frequencies. The EvoCultiva hiveMonitor is an ESP32-based sensor that logs data to your dashboard every 15 minutes, with no subscription required.

Always know where your hive is — live GPS coordinates and full movement history, replayed on a map
Seasonal preparation alerts — calibrated to your altitude and location, so you know when to add supers and when to begin winter preparation
Raw sound recorded and stored — replay sessions over time and hear the difference between a calm colony, a queenless hive, and pre-swarm overcrowding
Elevation resolved from GPS — altitude is used to calibrate forecasts and habitat scoring for your specific microclimate
Temperature, humidity & CO₂ — continuous readings catch overheating, winter cluster collapse, and pre-swarm overcrowding between inspections
Register your first hive
Live hive data
Temperature
34.2°C
Humidity
65%
CO₂
1,200 ppm
Sound RMS
0.18
Peak Freq
220 Hz

GPS Location 41.3825° N, 2.1769° E
Elevation 247 m Highland
Seasonal alert Add super soon

What New Beekeepers Ask

Straight answers to the questions that come up in every first season.

How many hives should I start with?
Two. With two hives you can compare colonies side-by-side, which makes diagnosing problems far easier. You can also transfer a frame of brood or eggs from a strong hive to a struggling one — something impossible with only one.
When is the best time to start?
Spring, four to six weeks before your main local nectar flow. In most of Europe this means March to April. Starting too late means the colony will not build up sufficient stores before winter.
How far do bees forage? Do I need to own the land?
Bees forage up to 3 km from the hive, covering roughly 28 km² of territory. You do not need to own it — but knowing what is in it matters. Use the habitat checker above to score your specific location.
How often should I inspect the hive?
Every 7–10 days during the active season, spring through early autumn. This matches the worker development cycle and lets you catch queen issues before they become crises. In winter, inspect as little as possible — check stores and cluster health only on warm days above 12°C.
Do I need a licence or planning permission?
In most European countries no licence is required, but registration with the national beekeeping authority is often mandatory and always advisable for disease traceability. Check local bylaws for distance requirements from boundaries and footpaths.
Can bees thrive in cities and suburbs?
Yes — urban bees often outperform rural ones, thanks to diverse garden planting, longer flowering seasons, and less pesticide exposure than intensive farmland. The habitat checker will show you the specific land-use mix near any proposed site.
What kills most beginner colonies?
Varroa mite infestation is the single largest cause of colony loss worldwide. Treat at the right time — typically late summer after the honey harvest, and again in late autumn — and monitor mite levels regularly. Starvation in late winter is the second most common cause; always leave adequate stores or supplement with fondant.
How does continuous monitoring help?
Inspections are snapshots taken days apart. A sensor provides continuous data: a sudden temperature drop can signal a dead queen or a broken winter cluster; a CO₂ spike often precedes swarming; abnormal sound frequencies can indicate distress. You can also verify whether feeding or other interventions are having an effect between visits.

Pest & Disease Guide

Field identification guide for the most common honey bee pests and diseases. Use the table of contents to jump to a specific entry.

Pests
Wasps Pest
Vespula spp. & Dolichovespula spp.
Common wasp
TypeInsect pest
SeasonLate summer – autumn
RiskRobbing, colony collapse

Social wasps are opportunistic robbers that prey on honey bees and steal honey stores. Pressure peaks from late August through October when natural food sources decline and wasp colonies reach maximum size. A large nest nearby can post dozens of foragers at the hive entrance simultaneously, killing guards and overwhelming the colony.

  • Intense fighting at the hive entrance — bees and wasps grappling
  • Dead or chewed bee bodies on the landing board
  • Wasps hovering persistently near the entrance or under the roof
  • Guard bees fanning vigorously at a reduced entrance
Reduce the entrance to 1–2 bee-widths from late July. Locate and destroy nearby wasp nests in spring before they grow large. Entrance traps (wasp lure + water) can reduce foraging pressure. Keeping strong, well-populated colonies is the best defence.
Small Hive Beetle Invasive Pest
Aethina tumida Murray, 1998
Small Hive Beetle adult
OriginSub-Saharan Africa
Size5–7 mm adult
RiskFermentation, colony loss

Originally from sub-Saharan Africa, now established in the Americas, Australia, and parts of southern Europe. Adult beetles enter hives and lay eggs in cracks and comb; larvae tunnel through honey and brood, causing fermentation that makes honey uninhabitable and can rapidly collapse a colony. Strong colonies usually police beetles successfully, but weak or honey-bound hives are highly vulnerable.

  • Small, dark oval beetles (5–7 mm) running from light when frames are lifted
  • Beetles congregating in dark corners, under the inner cover, or in cracks
  • Slimy, slippery comb with a sour, fermenting yeast smell
  • White larvae (resembling small maggots with spiny projections) in comb
Maintain populous colonies with no unoccupied comb space. Use in-hive oil traps (corrugated cardboard or commercial traps filled with vegetable oil). Sandy apiary soil reduces pupation success. Never leave exposed frames outside the hive. Report first detections to your national authority if not yet established in your region.
Wax Moth Pest
Galleria mellonella (Greater) · Achroia grisella (Lesser)
Greater Wax Moth larva
StageLarval damage only
Larva sizeUp to 28 mm
RiskSecondary pest of weak hives

Wax moths are secondary pests — they exploit colonies that are already weak, queenless or have died out. Adult moths enter hives at night and lay eggs in cracks. Hatching larvae tunnel through old comb leaving silken galleries and frass trails. A strong, healthy colony will remove eggs and larvae before significant damage occurs; stored equipment is the main vulnerability.

  • Silken tunnels and webbing stretched across or within comb
  • Cream-coloured larvae (up to 28 mm) with distinct legs visible in frames
  • Wax pellets (frass) along tunnel walls
  • Destroyed, sunken or "bald" brood cells with webbing across cappings
Keep colonies strong and well-occupied. Freeze stored combs for 24–48 hours to kill all life stages before storage. Store drawn comb in airy, well-lit conditions (larvae avoid light) or in sealed boxes with Certan (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray. Never stack supers in the dark without treatment.
Ants Pest
Lasius spp. · Formica spp. · Solenopsis invicta (fire ant)
Black garden ants
Risk levelLow–high (species-dependent)
TargetHoney, brood, adult bees

Many ant species exploit beehives as a food source. Black garden ants (Lasius niger) are a minor nuisance, raiding for honey and causing stress. Fire ants (Solenopsis invicta) are a serious threat — they enter en masse, kill bees and can cause colonies to abscond. Tropical ant species may cause complete colony abandonment if not controlled.

  • Visible ant trails running up the hive stand or legs
  • Ants inside frames, on the floor board, or under the inner cover
  • Bees clustering at the entrance or behaving aggressively
  • Ant nests established under the roof, floor or in stand crevices
Stand legs in containers of water or machine oil — ants cannot cross. Apply grease bands to wooden stands. Cinnamon, diatomaceous earth or chalk lines at the entrance deter garden species. Keep grass trimmed around hives. Eliminate nests in the immediate area.
Diseases
Nosema Gut Parasite
Nosema ceranae Fries 1996 · Nosema apis Zander 1909
Nosema spores under microscope
ClassMicrosporidian fungus
DiagnosisMicroscopy (400×)
SeasonalityWorst after long winter

Nosema is a microsporidian gut parasite affecting the midgut of adult honey bees. Spores are ingested through contaminated food or faeces and germinate in the gut epithelium, reducing absorption of nutrients and shortening worker lifespan. N. ceranae (the newer species, originally from Asian bees) is now dominant in most regions and causes disease year-round without the classic dysentery associated with N. apis. Both species are diagnosed by microscopy — spores are invisible to the naked eye.

  • Brown dysentery streaks on the outside of the hive (more common with N. apis)
  • Crawling bees unable to fly, especially in spring
  • Unexpected spring population crash despite adequate stores
  • Distended, greasy-looking abdomens on adult workers
Good nutrition (pollen-rich diet) and avoiding prolonged confinement reduce spore loads. Replace old comb regularly — spores remain viable for years in wax. Fumagillin is effective where licensed. Requeen with hygienic stock. Ensure adequate winter stores to avoid stress.
Chalkbrood Fungal Disease
Ascosphaera apis (Maasen ex Claussen) Spiltoir & Olive 1955
Chalkbrood mummies
ClassFungal disease
Stage affectedSealed larvae
SeverityUsually self-limiting

Chalkbrood is caused by the fungus Ascosphaera apis, which kills bee larvae after capping. The fungus sporulates inside the dead larva, converting it into a hard, chalk-like mummy. Early mummies are white; as sporulation progresses they become grey-black. The disease is more common during cool, damp springs and in hives with inadequate ventilation. Most colonies clear it naturally once conditions improve.

  • Hard, chalk-white or mottled grey-black mummified larvae in cells
  • Mummies ejected by bees onto the landing board or ground in front of the hive
  • Pepper-pot pattern: mix of healthy capped cells and empty/mummified cells
  • Worse in hives sitting in shade or with restricted ventilation
Improve hive ventilation (open-mesh floor, wider entrance, quilt box). Move hive to a sunny, sheltered position with afternoon sun. Requeen with hygienic-line stock which detects and removes infected larvae early. No approved chemical treatments exist — management is the only tool.
Sacbrood Viral Disease
Sacbrood virus (SBV) — Family Iflaviridae
Sacbrood virus larva
ClassIflavirus (RNA virus)
Stage affectedLate-stage larvae
SeverityMild – self-limiting

Sacbrood is the most widespread honey bee viral disease. The virus prevents pupation — the larva dies in its final instar and the skin becomes a fluid-filled sac. Bees detect and remove infected larvae promptly, so the disease is usually self-limiting. Outbreaks are most common in spring and typically resolve as the colony builds strength. There is no licensed treatment.

  • "Chinese slipper" shape — the larval head is upturned, coloured yellow to brown
  • Fluid-filled sac is visible when the larva is lifted out with a matchstick
  • Sunken or perforated cappings over individual cells
  • Scattered distribution among healthy brood ("pepper-pot" pattern)
No licensed treatments. Requeen with hygienic-line stock — hygienic bees remove infected larvae before the virus can spread. Ensure strong foraging population and good nutrition to support rapid colony recovery.
⚠ Notifiable disease — report any suspicion immediately to your national beekeeping authority or state veterinarian. Do not move frames, bees or equipment from the site.
American Foulbrood (AFB) Notifiable
Paenibacillus larvae (White 1906) Ash et al. 1994
American Foulbrood infected comb
ClassBacterial (spore-forming)
Spore viability40+ years in equipment
SeverityMost serious bee disease

American Foulbrood is the most destructive bacterial disease of honey bees worldwide. Caused by the spore-forming bacterium Paenibacillus larvae, it infects and kills larvae after capping. There is no cure — the bacteria produces spores that remain infectious for over 40 years in old equipment, honey and soil. Robbing bees and equipment sharing spread the disease rapidly between apiaries. Affected colonies are typically destroyed by burning in most countries.

  • Dark, sunken, greasy-looking cappings — often with small holes where bees have tried to uncap
  • Ropiness test: insert a matchstick or twig into an infected cell and draw it out — brown slime stretches 2–3 cm before snapping
  • Distinctive foul smell — like rotting meat (different from EFB's sour vinegar smell)
  • Scale: dried larvae lying flat and hard along the lower cell wall — almost impossible to remove cleanly
Report to your national authority immediately. Isolate the apiary — do not move anything. In most jurisdictions, infected colonies are destroyed (colony shaken onto newspaper then burned) and equipment is either burned or thoroughly scorched. Antibiotic treatment suppresses symptoms but does not eliminate spores; it is restricted or banned in most countries.
⚠ Notifiable in most EU countries, UK, Australia and parts of North America — check your national legislation.
European Foulbrood (EFB) Notifiable
Melissococcus plutonius (White 1912) Bailey & Collins 1982
European Foulbrood infected larvae
ClassBacterial
Stage affectedYoung, uncapped larvae
SeveritySerious, less persistent than AFB

European Foulbrood is caused by the bacterium Melissococcus plutonius, which colonises the midgut of young larvae and competes for food, causing death before capping. Unlike AFB, EFB does not form hardy spores and is less persistent in equipment. Outbreaks are often stress-related — poor nutrition, dearth or rapid colony expansion can trigger disease in colonies carrying a background infection. The shook-swarm technique combined with requeening is often effective.

  • Twisted, melted-looking larvae — yellow turning brown — dying in open (uncapped) cells
  • Larvae lie in abnormal positions within the cell (sprawled, not tightly coiled)
  • Sour, vinegar-like or yeasty smell — distinct from AFB's putrid, meaty odour
  • Scattered among healthy brood; cappings present on healthy cells nearby
Notify your beekeeping authority. Shook-swarm technique onto fresh foundation breaks the cycle. Requeen with hygienic or local-adapted stock. Oxytetracycline is licensed for treatment in some countries. Improve nutrition — pollen patty supplement during dearth can dramatically reduce severity.
Deformed Wing Virus (DWV) Viral Disease
Deformed wing virus — Family Iflaviridae
Bee with deformed wings from DWV
VectorVarroa destructor
PrevalenceGlobal, near-universal
IndicatorUncontrolled Varroa

Deformed Wing Virus is the most widespread honey bee virus globally, present in virtually every apiary that carries Varroa destructor. The virus is transmitted during feeding by Varroa mites on developing pupae, causing catastrophic developmental damage. Bees that emerge with DWV symptoms are non-functional and quickly die. Low-level infection causes no visible symptoms but reduces flight and lifespan; high loads cause visible wing deformity and rapid colony decline. DWV prevalence is a direct proxy for Varroa infestation intensity.

  • Bees emerging with crumpled, shrivelled or entirely absent wings — unable to fly
  • Crawling bees in front of the hive with bloated, shortened abdomens
  • Sudden or progressive loss of forager population in autumn
  • Almost always found alongside elevated Varroa counts (≥ 3/100 bees)
There is no direct treatment for DWV. Control Varroa mites rigorously using approved treatments (oxalic acid, thymol, formic acid) and DWV symptoms will resolve naturally as new healthy bees emerge. Monitor Varroa monthly with alcohol wash or sugar roll. Select hygienic and Varroa-resistant queens where available.

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